Romancing Cartagena
Why this colorful Colombian city deserves to be the reason for the trip.
Cartagena is HOT right now, literally and for those in the know.
For many of us, Colombia was our first introduction to adventure travel long before we ever stepped on a plane. We watched Romancing the Stone, dreamed of jungles, treasure maps, and faraway places, and imagined a country that felt mysterious and exotic.
Cartagena is none of those things.
Instead, I found a sophisticated, welcoming city with remarkable food, beautiful design, genuine hospitality, and enough reasons to return that I’m already thinking about a future visit.
I was lucky enough to experience Cartagena alongside dear friends, one of whom grew up there. Seeing any destination through the eyes of someone who knows it intimately is an unmatched experience. The restaurants, traditions, neighborhoods, and stories behind them create a much deeper connection to a place than any guidebook ever could.
Anytime you’re invited to explore someone’s hometown with them, say yes.
The opening of Four Seasons Cartagena this spring has also catapulted the city to the top of many travelers’ lists, and after spending several days there last month, I completely understand why (see my full review of the Four Seasons here).
A vibrant food scene, excellent shopping, island oases, and local leadership that has transformed this historic city into a safe and welcoming destination make it somewhere we already hope to return to.
Admittedly, Cartagena wasn’t at the top of my places-to-visit list. Not because I’d heard anything negative, quite the opposite. I simply assumed I’d experience it someday on a cruise itinerary or as part of a longer South American journey.
What I learned is that Cartagena deserves to be the reason for the trip.
What We Did
We mostly walked. About 10,000 hot steps per day.
The beauty of Cartagena is that much of the historic center is incredibly walkable. Days naturally unfolded between wandering the colorful streets of the Old City, exploring Getsemaní, stopping for cocktails, shopping, and then sitting down for yet another memorable meal.
Getsemaní was one of my favorite discoveries. Once a working-class neighborhood just outside the city walls, it has evolved into one of Cartagena’s most vibrant districts. Street art, music, local fruit vendors, lively plazas, and restaurants spill onto the sidewalks. It’s impossible not to feel the energy.
One morning, our friend introduced us to a variety of local fruits I’d never tried before. It was one of those simple travel moments that sticks with you long after you’ve returned home.
The breakfast at Four Seasons deserves its own mention. It’s one of the most impressive hotel breakfasts I’ve experienced. I never even made it to the custom omelet station because I was too busy working my way through local fruits, Colombian specialties, and fresh juices each morning.
Beyond Cartagena
While Cartagena easily stands on its own for a long weekend, one of the things that makes Colombia so compelling is the opportunity to pair it with entirely different landscapes and experiences.
Few destinations rival Colombia’s geographic diversity. Snow-capped Andean peaks give way to rolling coffee hills, dense Amazon rainforest stretches into untouched wilderness, and both Caribbean and Pacific coastlines offer completely different expressions of tropical beauty. In a single journey, travelers can move from the cosmopolitan energy of Bogotá to the colorful streets of Cartagena, all while experiencing a remarkable range of ecosystems, cultures, and cuisines.
Colombia’s geography makes this surprisingly easy. Situated at the crossroads of North and South America, the country enjoys year-round travel thanks to its equatorial location, while the Andes Mountains create a variety of climates and landscapes within relatively short distances.
If I were returning with more time, I’d pair Cartagena with Colombia’s Coffee Region, where rolling green hills, charming towns, and some of the world’s most celebrated coffee create a completely different experience. Bogotá would also make a fascinating addition for travelers interested in art, history, and a more urban perspective on the country.
That’s perhaps what impressed me most. Cartagena may have been the reason for this trip, but it also left me wanting to see much more of Colombia.
The Best Day of the Trip
When the afternoon heat became too much, we escaped to the islands, which is very much a part of their culture.
And yes, you can rent an entire island.
For just several hundred dollars per person, we spent the day at Isla Amores, a beautiful private island within the Rosario Islands and owned by a gentleman who has four boutique properties in Cartagena (who we had the chance to meet). There were several areas to swim and snorkel and plenty of loungers in the sand. We arrived to mezcal margaritas and settled into a day that felt wonderfully removed from reality.
Lunch included fresh fish, empanadas de carne y queso, shrimp in a light garlic sauce, and the kind of meal that reminds you why seafood tastes better when you’re staring at the ocean.
What surprised me most was that Isla Amores isn’t just a day trip destination. There are cabins available for overnight stays, and after spending the afternoon there, I could easily see adding one or two nights to a future itinerary, and it would be perfect for a bachelorette party, yoga retreat, or friends celebrating a milestone birthday.
Dining & Cocktails
Admittedly, this is the first destination I’ve visited in Central or South America where my stomach never once protested.
And we ate. A lot.
Three full meals a day, which is considerably more than my typical routine.
The menus were filled with fresh seafood, steaks, tropical fruits, and what may be the best coconut rice I’ve ever eaten. Slightly sweet, incredibly flavorful, and somehow the perfect complement to nearly everything on the plate.
The cuisine felt approachable and ingredient-driven. Nothing was overly spiced or overly complicated. Just excellent products prepared thoughtfully.
One ingredient that seemed to appear everywhere was hearts of palm. My favorite preparation combined hearts of palm with mango, pomegranate, arugula, and olive oil. It’s already on my list to recreate at home.
A few standouts:
Alquímico – One of Cartagena’s most celebrated cocktail destinations and a must for anyone interested in the city’s creative bar scene.
Donjuan – Elevated Colombian cuisine that consistently appears on “best of Cartagena” lists for good reason.
Apogeo – A modern tasting menu experience showcasing Colombian ingredients through a contemporary lens.
Cande – Lively, colorful, and deeply rooted in local culture.
La Vitrola – A Cartagena classic with old-world charm, live music, and a menu focused on Caribbean flavors.
The Grand Grill at Four Seasons – Major Food Group’s first venture in Colombia, blending Cartagena’s coastal influences with the group’s signature style.
Shopping
With designers like Silvia Tcherassi and Johanna Ortiz calling Colombia home, it’s no surprise that Cartagena has become a shopping destination in its own right.
The influence of quality fabrics, tailored silhouettes, and feminine design is everywhere.
My favorite discoveries included Malva and Porto de Almas, both showcasing a thoughtful mix of Colombian designers and artisans.
For home goods, I loved browsing Pez en el Agua, where handcrafted pieces are created by indigenous Colombian people paid fair and livable wages. We picked up the cutest napkin rings that will keep memories from the trip alive each time we use them.
A Few Things That Surprised Me
The city felt remarkably clean.
There were very few stray animals.
The women are impeccably dressed.
And despite the age of the historic streets, there was a noticeable sense of pride in maintaining the city.
Most of all, I was struck by the hospitality. Everywhere we went, people seemed genuinely proud of Cartagena and eager to share it.
A Final Thought
Cartagena may have arrived on my radar because of a new Four Seasons, but it’s the people, food, culture, shopping, and history that will bring me back. And unlike Joan Wilder, I didn’t leave Colombia with a treasure map.
I did leave with a longer list of places I’d like to explore next.
Some destinations are wonderful additions to a larger itinerary.
Others deserve to be the reason for the trip.
Cartagena is one of them.
Thanks for supporting The Curated Course. Make sure to subscribe so you don’t miss out on any of my upcoming pieces.
Love TCC? Share it with a friend!
I want to go here BADLY!